How do women practice rock climbing
1. Physical characteristics
There are differences between men and women in Figure proportion. Women's upper body is longer, legs are shorter, and the body center of gravity is 6% lower than men's, so women have better balance ability. In addition, women's shoulders are narrower and their hips are larger.
Compared with men whose muscles account for 40% - 50% of their body weight, women's muscles are less developed, usually less than 35% of their weight. According to the research of Letunov (former Soviet Union), women's body fat accounts for 28% of their body weight, while men's body fat is only 18% of their body weight on average, which means that women have 10% - 15% more muscles than men that are conducive to exercise
However, there are 10% more adipose tissue that is not conducive to sports than men, but some leg workers, narrow hips, thin hips and women athletes who show great sports potential are not excluded. According to the above characteristics, special attention should be paid to the development of absolute strength and strength endurance in rock climbing training.
On the other hand, because the content of water and fat in women's bone tissue is more than that in men, and the intervertebral cartilage of the spine is thicker, women have better joint flexibility and flexibility, which makes women better adjust their own movement timing and rhythm, which makes them have favorable conditions in the aspects of stable ability, dexterity, flexibility and so on. In a sense, female athletes can master skills more effectively.
2. Menstrual training
Traditional prejudice has a great influence on the correct understanding of women's physiological characteristics in sports. The vast majority of female players do not train or do casual activities during their period, but the actual situation is the opposite.
In the menstrual period, there are mild uncomfortable feelings, such as abdominal distension, backache, poor appetite, fatigue, emotional excitement, etc., which are normal physiological phenomena in the menstrual period, and can be trained as usual, but the amount of exercise can be adjusted appropriately.
Appropriate amount of exercise can effectively improve the functional state of the human body and promote blood circulation. During exercise, the contraction and relaxation of abdominal muscles and pelvic floor muscles are carried out alternately, which has a * * effect on the uterus and is conducive to the discharge of menstrual blood.
People's adaptability is very strong, menstrual training will quickly adapt.
Of course, it does not rule out the differences between individuals. As found in the survey, 81.6% of female athletes can show normal or better performance during menstruation, while 18.4% of them are lower than their normal performance.
From the above, it can be seen that there are individual differences in the body's response during the menstrual period, and we should realize that once an athlete is engaged in rock climbing, she must have a firm belief and the spirit of hard work. As a female athlete, she can do some training during the menstrual period, such as: hand muscle, upper arm muscle, forearm muscle and force technique: grasping, pulling, pushing, pedaling, stepping, friction and balance ability.
3. Development power
Rock climbing, as far as its technology is concerned, is the fixed climbing of fulcrum. It requires athletes to have great strength to overcome their own gravity to climb up. Therefore, the development of special strength in rock climbing training becomes extremely important.
Especially for female athletes, their muscles are underdeveloped and their body fat is high. In addition, 74.7% of the water in women's muscles contains less glycogen than that in men. Therefore, women's muscle strength is weak.
The size of muscle strength is related to the function of nervous system, the physiological and biochemical changes of muscle, and the physiological cross-sectional area of muscle. The increase of cross-section of muscle is caused by the coarsening of fiber. If the cross-section is coarser, the muscle will be powerful. Strength training is an effective means for the coarsening of muscle fiber. To develop women's muscle strength, combined with rock climbing, we should not only develop shoulder girdle muscle, back muscle and abdomen muscle We should also focus on the development of special strength, such as upper arm muscle, forearm muscle, foot muscle and hand muscle;
There are many training methods to develop strength, such as shoulder girdle muscle with load-bearing straight arm side lifting, thruster, etc.; back muscle with lifting barbell, pulling up, climbing pole, weight-bearing body flexion and extension, etc.; abdominal muscle with supine right angle lifting, weight-bearing rotation, supine leg lifting, etc;
The pelvic muscles are used to lift the legs, kick the legs, lie prone on the back, bend and extend the legs; the upper arm muscles are supported by parallel bars, the forearm muscles are wrapped with heavy hammers, and the weight-bearing wrists are flexed and extended; the hand muscles are used to hang the fingers, grip the forceps, and grasp the heavy objects.
According to Japanese materials, the fastest development stage of strength is 13-14 years old. Soviet Union kolobkov studied the changes of muscle strength at different ages and put forward that the peak of strength is 20-23 years old
That is to say, women's absolute strength increases the fastest at the age of 13-14, and the greatest at the age of 20-23. In this way, in the process of training, we should arrange sports reasonably according to the age and physical condition of the athletes.
Generally speaking, most of the rock climbers are about 18-23 years old. At this time, the strength value is basically close to the highest point, the absolute strength increases slowly, and the amount and intensity of strength training should be carried out in waves.
According to the characteristics of women, we should avoid using single, heavy and repetitive methods in strength training, which will produce heavy pressure on the lower part of the pelvis; do not limit the range of action during training, otherwise it will make the ligaments and muscles tense and affect the elasticity of muscles.
